Les Deux Magots: The Grand Literary Bastion
Resting directly opposite the oldest church tower in Paris—the Romanesque Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés—Les Deux Magots has served as a sanctuary for the international avant-garde and French literati for more than 135 years.
The café's name originates from a historical silk novelty shop that occupied 23 Rue de Buci before relocating to Place Saint-Germain in 1873. The name refers to the two grotesque wooden Chinese merchant figures ("magots") that continue to perch high upon the central salon pillar inside, gazing benignly over patrons. In 1885, the business transitioned into a grand liquor and coffee house, immediately attracting poets Paul Verlaine, Arthur Rimbaud, and Stéphane Mallarmé.
During the interwar period of the 1920s and 1930s, Les Deux Magots became a focal meeting place for Surrealists under André Breton, as well as the American expatriate generation, including Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald. In 1933, dissatisfied with the increasingly conventional choices of the official Prix Goncourt committee, patrons established the Prix des Deux Magots, which remains one of France’s distinguished literary prizes awarded annually inside the café.
The Atmosphere and Architecture
The salon retains its Belle Époque grandeur, defined by dark carved woodwork, brass railings, leather banquettes, and large mirrors reflecting the ancient stonework of the abbey outside. The wide, heated outdoor terrace offers one of the most spacious vantage points in the neighborhood, shaded by awnings bearing the café’s distinctive dark green serif lettering.
Gastronomic Traditions & What to Order
Les Deux Magots places heavy emphasis on French culinary standards served from breakfast through supper:
- Old-Fashioned Hot Chocolate: Prepared using molten dark chocolate and whole milk, served in a heavy ceramic pot with fresh whipped cream (Chantilly) on the side.
- Croque-Monsieur Classique: Crafted with artisanal pain de mie, French Emmental cheese, and superior cooked ham, baked to a golden crust.
- House Viennoiserie Basket: Flaky pain au chocolat, butter croissants, and brioche sourced from top Parisian bakers.
- Foie Gras de Canard: Traditional duck foie gras served with toasted brioche and fig chutney.
Les Deux Magots vs. Café de Flore Comparison
| Attribute | Les Deux Magots | Café de Flore |
|---|---|---|
| View & Panorama | Direct sightline across the square to Saint-Germain Abbey | Direct urban view of Boulevard Saint-Germain streetscape |
| Literary Legacy | Hemingway, Surrealists, Prix des Deux Magots (1933) | Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, Existentialism, Prix de Flore (1994) |
| Seating Layout | Expansive square terrace facing open plaza | Linear wrap-around street-corner terrace |
| Hot Chocolate Style | Velvety, served with separate Chantilly cream | Dense, dark, intensely roasted cocoa profile |
Notable Merits
- Direct unobstructed view of the 1,000-year-old Saint-Germain Abbey
- Exceptional table service by attentive career servers
- Spacious terrace seating compared to typical Saint-Germain cafés
- Renowned breakfast sets and afternoon tea selection
Considerations
- Substantial menu tariffs due to prime location
- Terrace tables fill quickly on sunny weekend afternoons